Jerash, also known as Gerasa by the ancient Greeks, is a remarkably well-preserved antique city in the Middle East and is a perfect day trip from Amman. As an avid admirer of Greco-Roman civilisations and their rich history, I love being able to actually walk in the relic city, of which enough remains to ignite my imagination.
In this guide we'll cover all you need to plan your visit to the ancient city of Jerash, the Pompeii of Asia, including tips on how to get there, what to see and a few practical tips.
History
The history of Jerash dates back over 6,500 years, with evidence from human settlements from the Neolithic period. The city flourished under Roman rule, particularly during the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. It became a prosperous metropolis and an important center of trade and commerce in the region. Jerash was strategically located on the crossroads between major trade routes, allowing it to thrive economically.
During this time, the city underwent extensive urban planning and development, showcasing impressive Roman architecture and infrastructure. It boasted grand temples, theaters, public squares, streets adorned with columns, and a sophisticated water supply system, including fountains and aqueducts.
Jerash's prosperity continued well into the Byzantine era, but it faced decline and devastation in the 7th century with the Islamic conquests. The city was heavily damaged by earthquakes in subsequent centuries, which led to its abandonment and gradual burial under layers of sand and debris.
It wasn't until the 19th century that Jerash was rediscovered and excavation efforts began to uncover its remarkable ruins. Today, Jerash is one of the best-preserved and most impressive Roman cities in the world, with some calling Jerash the "Pompeii of the East".
Highlights
The ruins are spread out, and even though we did not have a map with us, navigating around the ruins was easy, and we did not have a feeling we missed anything.
There are so many incredible things to see in Jerash, but here are some of the most notable ones:
Oval Plaza - This vast plaza is the centerpiece of the ancient city and was once a bustling hub of activity. It is surrounded by columns and features a central fountain.
Hadrian's Arch - This monumental triumphal arch was built to honor the visit of the Roman Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century. It stands at the entrance of the city and is beautifully adorned with intricate carvings.
Hippodrome - Jerash has one of the best-preserved Roman hippodromes in the world. It was used for chariot races and other sporting events and could accommodate around 15,000 spectators.
Temple of Artemis - Dedicated to the goddess Artemis, this temple is an impressive structure with well-preserved Corinthian columns and intricate architectural details.
South Theatre - Jerash boasts two well-preserved Roman theatres, and the South Theatre is the larger of the two. It could seat around 3,000 spectators and is still used for cultural events and performances.
Cardo Maximus - This ancient Roman road runs through the heart of Jerash. Lined with columns, it was once a bustling marketplace and commercial street. The Cardo Maximus was the main axis of the city, derived from Greek kardia ("heart") and as such was generally lined with shops and vendors, and served as a hub of economic life.
North Theatre - The North Theatre is a smaller but equally impressive theater in Jerash. It is known for its excellent acoustics and is also used for performances and events.
Nymphaeum - This ornate fountain was a symbol of wealth and prosperity in ancient Jerash. It featured elaborate carvings, statues, and water channels.
Temple of Zeus - Although partially destroyed, the Temple of Zeus still showcases its grandeur and significance in the ancient city.
Archaeological Museum of Jerash - Located near the site, this museum houses a collection of artifacts found in Jerash, providing a deeper understanding of the city's history and culture.
As our guide pointed out, few original mosaics remain in the ruined city of Jerash, as large swathes of mosaics have been deliberately vandalised in order not to offend religious sensibilities. As the Ottoman Empire grew more powerful and extended its reach from the 13th century onwards many former churches were converted into mosques and mosaics were hacked away or covered over, as the use of images of any sentient beings (animals included) was prohibited.
Getting around
This remarkably well-preserved ancient city in the Middle East is worth a special trip. Once part of the famous Roman Decapolis, Jerash is absolutely stunning!
You can visit the ruins by yourself, which will take you between 3 and 4 hours. You won't need hiking boots, but be prepared to cover a few kilometres. We decided to take a private guide (30 JOD) at the visitor centre, to make sure we didn't leave a single stone unturned.
Getting there
Car
Jerash is located approximately 50km north of Amman, which makes it easily accessible by car following route 35. The roads are well signposted from the capital. There is a free visitor's parking located near the entrance where you can leave your (rental) car behind safely.
Are you not sure whether renting a car is something you want to consider for your trip? Read our guide with tips about renting a car in Jordan.
Public Transit
Going to Jerash by bus is by far the best choice when you are travelling on a budget. From the North Bus Station (Tabarbour) in Amman (link on Google Maps), public buses leave regularly for Jerash. They do not depart on a fixed schedule, but leave when they have filled up. For this reason, we recommend to leave early for a quick getaway, especially when if you are visiting on a day trip.
Taxi
If you do not have a car and getting to Jerash by bus seems too time-consuming, there is another option, hiring a driver. It is for sure more comfortable to travel to Jerash by taxi, but also more expensive, so it might be better for a group of friends traveling together who can share the cost.
One-way will set you back around 20 JOD, but you will most likely be asked for more, so this will be the perfect moment to demonstrate your negotiating powers. Although you can ask the driver to wait for you, it will be much cheaper to flag down a different car on your way back.
Tours
Many operators offer tours with starting point in Amman. Most of them also (such as this popular option) include a stop at Aljoun Castle, a historic fortress from the 12th century, and Umm Qays, another city belonging to the Decapolis.
Entry
There’s only one entrance to the site, which is the Visitor’s Center (the ticket office). The Jordan Pass includes admission to the Jerash archaeological site, as well as many of the other sites often found on the tours (Aljoun Castle, Umm Qays). Read all about the Jordan Pass and whether buying it is a good idea in our post.
Entry without a Jordan Pass will set you back 10 JOD as a foreigner. The entry ticket also includes entry to the nearby archeological museum.
Practical tips
Prepare for the weather. During spring and summer months the temperatures can get quite hot, so bring plenty of water, sunscreen and something to cover your head from the sun. Winter in Jerash is cold and rainy, so it is advised to dress warm, with an umbrella and a rain jacket.
There are toilets on site, which were relatively clean when we visited (do bring your own toilet paper, as this may not be guaranteed!).
I hope you enjoy visiting Jerash as much as I did!
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